My weekend revolved around tomatoes.  My goal was to use as many  tomatoes as I could in all that I was baking.  Our temperatures during the night flirted with the upper 40's and as the daylight hours dwindle away, I have come to terms with another summer's end.  And did I say, we ate a huge amount of tomatoes?  I copied this recipe for Tomato Cobbler with Gruyére Crust from a Martha Stewart Living magaziine in 2002.  I was never, however, satisfied with the results.  I really liked the idea of sweet cherry tomatoes paired with a flaky, cheesy crust...

but the recipe combined the tomatoes with too much flour -- over 1/4 cup.  What was Martha thinking?  It was pasty and cloudy.   I substituted arrowroot which results in a clear, flavorless thickener, allowing the tomatoes and basil to shine. 

   Try and let the cobbler cool somewhat before eating to allow the juices to stabelize.

                    Mixed Tomato Cobbler with Gruyére Crust 
                      adapted from Martha Stewart Living|2002

• 1 1/4 cups unbleached flour
• 2 teaspoons salt, divided
• 2 teaspoons sugar, divided
• 3/4 cup Gruyére cheese, divided
• 1/2 cup cold, unsalted butter, cubed
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 3 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2 pounds assorted cherry tomatoes
• 5 teaspoons arrowroot
• 1/2 cup chopped basil
• Pinch of pepper
• 1 large egg

1.  In the bowl of a food processor, combine flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 cup Gruyére cheese.  Add the butter and process until mixture resembles coarse meal.
2.  With the machine running, add about 1/4 cup ice water, little by little through the feed tube.  Pulse.  Do not allow dough to become wet.
3.  Flatten the dough into a disc and wrap in plastic.  Refrigerate for at least one hour.
4.  Heat the olive oil in a large skillet.  Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent and softened, stirring frequently.  Let cool.
5.  Place tomatoes in a large bowl.  Toss with the arrowroot and remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, basil and pepper.  Add the cooled onion mixture to the tomatoes and toss to combine.  Transfer the mixture to a 10-inch pie dish or gratin dish.
6.  Heat the oven to 375˚F.  Roll the dough 1-inch larger that the baking dish.  Place the dough on top of the tomatoes, tucking in edges to seal.  Make several small slits in the crust and crimp the edges.  In a small bowl, mix the egg with 1 teaspoon water.  Brush the egg glaze over the crust and sprinkle crust with remaining 1/4 cup cheese.  Place the dish on a baking sheet and bake until the crust is golden, about 50 minutes.  Cool before serving.

   Our French boy has left.  He's gone back to Marseille.  The last several posts were all foods we ate while he was visiting.  He loves "meat".  I was usually baking a dessert each day (French, of course.  So much for an American dining experience) and I incorporated much more "meat" into our diets than we normally eat.  I have been making this skewered chicken frequently over the summer.  I discovered it in the meat case at our local Whole Foods store and decided to create my own.  I saw it as another way to use my bounty of fresh basil.  The name it goes by at Whole Foods is Chicken Spedini.  I made searches on the web for this and the recipes varied greatly.  My version is similar to what Whole Foods is selling.
   The first thing you will need to do is make Basil Oil.  Combine 1/3 cup fresh basil, 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil and 1 to 2 cloves of minced garlic (it all depends on how much you love garlic) in the bowl of a food processor; purée until smooth and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.  Using one large, boneless, skinless chicken breast halve per person, cut each breast into large cubes.  Drop these into a bowl or zip-lock bag and drizzle enough of the basil oil over the chicken to coat.  I have used the chicken immediately at this point, but if you can marinate it, refrigerated, for several hours, so much the better.  Soak 10-inch wooden skewers in a pan of water before threading the chicken onto the skewer (this step prevents the wood skewer from catching on fire).  Wrap each chicken cube in a piece of pancetta (Italian bacon) and tuck a small basil leaf inbetween the two before sliding onto the skewer.  I use 5 pieces of chicken per skewer.  Grill over a low flame. 
   And I forgot to mention... everyone who has eaten this, loves it!

   Fortunately, I have a daughter who reminds me that, just because I like something it doesn't mean others will.  We invited people this past weekend for Sunday brunch.  We did not know the people.  We all had a connection to the "French Boy" that was still visiting this past weekend.  

   In August, the majority of my cooking is dictated by what's growing in my garden.  Right now I have beautiful lettuces; the result of a very cool summer.

     And look at these beets!  The bright red are Chioga; the darker ones, Detroit Red.

   I roasted the beets, then diced the dark red and sliced the Chioga.  Could there be anything more magnificent?  This platter is awaiting a drizzle of a vinaigrette and a sprinkling of Maytag Blue cheese and toasted walnuts (get my recipe here).  I also assembled and baked two tomato tarts.  We dined on the patio.

   Luckily, the night before the brunch my daughter told me I had to have something to eat besides the tomato tarts and the beet salad.  Even tho' I would be perfectly happy eating that, others may not like it.  She was right...  our guests were obviously not tomato and beet lovers (go figure!). They did, however, devour the Baked Blueberry-Pecan French Toast.

       Baked Blueberry-Pecan French Toast with Blueberry Syrup
                             Gourmet Magazine | June 1999

• a 24-inch baguette
• 6 large eggs
• 3 cups whole milk
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 cup packed brown sugar
• 1 cup pecans
• 1/2 stick ( 1/4 cup ) plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups blueberries
For syrup
• 1 cup blueberries
• 1/2 cup pure maple syrup
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1.  Butter a 13- by 9-inch baking dish.  Cut twenty 1-inch slices from baguette and arrange in one layer in baking dish.  In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, nutmeg, vanilla, and 3/4 cup brown sugar and pour evenly over bread.  Chill mixture, covered, until all liquid is absorbed by bread, at least 8 hours, and up to 1 day.
2.  Preheat oven to 350˚F.
3.  In a shallow baking pan spread pecans evenly and toast in middle of oven until fragrant, about 8 minutes.  Toss pecans in pan with 1 teaspoon butter and salt.
4.  Increase temperature to 400˚F.
5.  Sprinkle pecans and blueberries evenly over bread mixture.  Cut 1/2 stick butter into pieces and in a small saucepan, heat with remaining 1/4 cup brown sugar, stirring, until butter is melted.  Drizzle butter mixture over bread and bake mixture 20 minutes, or until any liquid from blueberries is bubbling.
6.  Make syrup while French toast is baking:  In a small saucepan cook blueberries and maple syrup over moderate heat until berries have burst, about 3 minutes.  Pour syrup through a sieve into a heat-proof pitcher, pressing on solids, and stir in lemon juice.  Syrup may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.  Reheat syrup before serving.

   I got this recipe for Orange, Tomato and Avocado Salad from the same friend and neighbor that first served me Bistecca alla Florentina.  I treasure my neighbor!  I would literally drop everything if she called and asked me to dinner.  Truly, the best meals I have ever had were shared efforts enjoyed on my neighbor's patio. 
   You only want to make this salad in the summer, when you are able to use sweet, from-the-garden tomatoes.

                         Orange, Tomato and Avocado Salad

• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 avocados, large dice
• 2 tomatoes, preferably heirloom, cut into large dice
• 2 oranges, peeled and sliced into thick rounds
• 1 small red onion, sliced into rings
• 10 to 12 black olives, pitted
• 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1.  Whisk together the lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Gently toss the diced avocados and tomatoes with half of the lemon juice-olive oil vinaigrette.
2.  Arrange the orange slices on a platter.  Scatter the red onion slices over the oranges and drizzle with the remaining half of the vinaigrette. 
3.  Spoon the avocados and tomatoes on top of the oranges.  Top with black olives and almonds.

                  

   I have been making Bistecca alla Florentina (Tuscan Porterhouse) ever since our neighbors served it to us a couple of years ago, after returning home from a vacation to Italy.  It's a snap to make and wonderful served with any fresh produce from your garden or the farmers' market... especially a tomato caprese salad!  Porterhouse, New York Strip or T-Bone is the suggested cut of meat, but I have been using Top Round recently; the thicker, the better.
   Prepare the grill.  Over high heat, sear the steak, reduce the heat (or raise the rack) and continue to cook until medium-rare.  Have waiting, a platter of chopped fresh rosemary, chopped fresh sage and lots of finely-diced garlic.  Pour over this at least one-third of a cup of extra-virgin olive oil (the more, the better, as far as I'm concerned).  The moment the steak is pulled off the grill, plunge into the herb and oil mixture and start flipping the steak.  Add a good dose of salt (it is impossible to over-salt once the steak is seared); continue to flip,  then add freshly ground pepper. 
   Simple, and absolutely delicious!

   Here it is... the Tarte aux fruits recipe that is made with the delicious vanilla pastry cream I told you about yesterday.  The tart recipe is from a September 16, 1984, New York Times Magazine article by the late Craig Clairborne and Pierre Franey.  As was the case with Mr. Clairborne, this type of tart was the first true French pastry I ever sampled.  He described the flavors as "haunting".  It is hard to beat a dessert such as this, made with fresh, local berries, a crisp, buttery crust, and of course, the vanilla pastry cream.  It is a classic.  The one thing I would suggest -- assemble right before eating, or refrigerate after assembly if not serving immediately.  Humidity is not kind to this dessert and will result in a soggy crust.  Also, I am including Craig Claiborne's recipe for the pastry shell.  I used my favorite almond pastry for my tart.

                                  Tarte aux fruits
    from a 1984 NY Times article by Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey

• 1 baked tart shell (see recipe following)
• 2 1/4 cups pastry cream (see recipe)
• 2 to 3 pints fresh raspberries, strawberries, or blueberries
• 1/4 cup apricot preserves ( I used currant jelly)
• 2 tablespoons water (I used brandy)
1.  Bake the tart shell and let it cool.  If a removable-bottom pan was used, remove the shell from the rim in which it was baked.
2.  Fill the tart shell with pastry cream and smooth over the top.
3.  Garnish the top of the pastry cream, placing berries as close as possible to completely cover the cream. 
4.  To glaze the berries, combine the preserves with the water in a small saucepan.  Bring to the boil, stirring.  Put the mixture through a sieve to remove the seeds.  Dip a pastry brush into the glaze and brush the tops of the berries with it.

                                       Baked Tart Shell
• 2 cups flour
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 12 tablespoons very cold butter
• 2 egg yolks
• 2 to 4 tablespoons ice water
1.  Place the flour, salt and sugar in the container of a food processor.  Cut the butter into small pieces and add it.  Add the yolks.  Blend briefly and gradually add the water.  Add only enough water until the dough pulls away from the sides of the container.
2.  Gather the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic and chill for one hour. 
3.  Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400˚F.
4.  Roll out the dough and use it to line a 10-inch tart pan.  Line the dough with foil and fill with dried beans or rice.
5.  Place a baking sheet in the oven.  Place the pastry shell on the baking sheet and bake 20 minutes.  Remove and discard the dried beans or rice and foil.  Reduce the oven heat to 375˚F.
6.  Continue baking until the tart shell is golden brown on the bottom.  Remove and let cool.

   I know... I'm doing this all backwards.  The berry tart I made, with a thin layer of vanilla pastry cream beneath blueberries and raspberries, should come first; not what I did with the left-over pastry cream.  But this was so good!  Another proven case of -- the simplest turns out to be the best.  I've been in my kitchen non-stop during the "French Boy" visit and will have a slew of recipes and photos of what we ate during his week with us.  For breakfast one morning, I took the pastry cream left-over from the tart I made the night before (about 1 1/3 cups) and  folded in ripe, fragrant, diced peaches (about 2).  We ate it along with toasted bread and French salted butter.  The peaches and pastry cream would also be fantastic with a good granola on top.

                                    Crème Pâtissière (Pastry Cream)
• 1 1/2 cups milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 4 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1.  Blend one cup of the milk and the cream in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
2.  As the mixture is heated, put the egg yolks and sugar into a mixing bowl and beat until pale yellow.  Add the cornstarch to the yolk mixture and beat well.  Add the remaining one-half cup of milk and beat until blended.
3.  When the milk and cream mixture is at the boil, remove from the heat.  Add the yolk mixture, beating rapidly with a wire whisk.
4.  Return to the heat and bring to the boil, stirring constantly with the whisk.  When thickened and at the boil, remove from the heat.  Add the vanilla and let cool, stirring occasionally.
YIELD:  About two and one-quarter cups.

   Our "8-Day French Boy" has arrived and this will be a busy week for him, and for us.  My husband and daughter took him to the 91st PGA Golf Tournament yesterday here in the Twin Cities.  He seemed exhausted when they returned home late in the afternoon.  What a trooper.  He knows nothing about golf and said there are no golf courses around his home in Marseille.  (So much for getting my husband to Provence on the premise he can play golf while there).  He lit up last night when my daughter asked him if he'd like to go to the Mall of America today.  I wish I were able to go shopping today with Euros at the Mall of America.
   He likes "meat", so there will probably be a lot of that in the coming days.  I haven't made dessert yet while he's been here.  Imagine that-- Eileen not making dessert.  It's a bit intimidating making dessert for someone that's from the land of extraordinary desserts...  Last week I was craving old-fashioned vanilla pudding, so here's a recipe if you also feel like eating pudding...

                                            Vanilla Pudding
                            from the New York Times Cookbook

• 1/4 cup cornstarch
• 1/2 cup sugar (vanilla sugar if you have it available)
• Pinch of salt
• 3 cups whole milk
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1.  In a bowl mix the cornstarch, sugar and salt.  Add about 1/2 cup milk and mix.  Heat remaining milk almost to simmering in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat. 
2.  Stir cornstarch mixture to blend it and add about half of the scaled milk to it while stirring.  Return to milk in saucepan and cook, stirring, until the mixture boils.
3.  Beat the egg yolks lightly.  Add a small amount of the pudding mixture to the yolks, stirring constantly.  Return all to the saucepan and cook, stirring, until thickened.
4.  Add vanilla and turn the mixture immediately into a serving dish or into 5 or 6 custard cups.  Cool and chill.  Serve with a fruit sauce. 

   This Tomato-Peach Salsa was a huge hit!  We couldn't stop eating it, and it was gone in a flash.  I will definitely be making this again during tomato and peach season.

                                Fresh Tomato and Peach Salsa
                        adapted from a recipe by Nicole Routhier

• 1 pound tomatoes, heirloom if possible
• 3 ripe, unpeeled peaches, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion
• 2 tablespoons finely shredded basil
• 1 jalapeno pepper, finely minced
• 4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Fine sea salt to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  In a large bowl, gently toss together the diced tomatoes, peaches, red onion, basil, jalapeno, balsamic vinegar and olive oil.  Add the sea salt and pepper to taste.  Eat immediately.


 

   Finally, the day I've been waiting for -- TOMATOES!  And, of course, the first thing I did with my just-picked tomatoes, was make my favorite Tomato Tart.  It's a recipe that I posted during tomato season last year, but a recipe that is worthy of re-posting. 

   I used Cherokee Purple, an heirloom tomato from my garden, but any freshly-picked, vine-ripened tomato will do.  I also tossed on several halved yellow pear tomatoes for the color.  We will be eating this tomato tart at least once a week during tomato season.  And... as far as I'm concerned, that isn't enough.
                              Get my favorite Tomato Tart recipe here.