Why, you may ask, is the photo on today's post so small?  Why am I doing an injustice to today's featured food?  Well, truth be told, this "cheese ball" isn't the most photogenic appetizer I've ever made.  I just can't find a good way to position it.  It looks the same from every angle!  But I want you to overlook its homely appearance because it tastes terrific!  It's also  French and that's probably what first appealed to me some 30 years ago when I found this recipe.  An interesting concoction of ingredients - I guarantee that anyone who tries this "cheese ball" will feel the same way about it as I do.

                                    PEANUT BUTTER PATE'

1/2 cup chopped fresh mushrooms
2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened
2 Tbsp. creamy peanut butter
2 slices bacon
3 green onions, finely chopped
1.  Cook and stir mushrooms in butter for 5 minutes; stir in lemon juice.  Remove from heat.  Beat cream cheese and peanut butter until fluffy.  Stir in mushrooms and cover.  Refrigerate at least one hour.
2.  Fry bacon until crisp; drain and crumble.  Shape cream cheese mixture into a ball.  Roll ball in bacon and onion; cover.  Refrigerate until serving time.
3.  Serve with assorted crackers.

I'm wild about chocolate.  When I was seven years old, I was addicted to chocolate ice cream sodas.  Then there was the stretch of nearly a year when I had to have seven Oreo cookies and a glass of milk each night before I went to bed. (If I had seven Oreos I finished the cookies and the milk at exactly the same time).  My taste became more sophisticated and I moved on to chocolate cream pie piled high with whipped cream or meringue.  Lately, it's been dense chocolate cake in a pool of creme anglaise.  But in addition to all of these sweet temptations, I'm wild about anything with chocolate printed, painted or embossed on it.

These are my French chocolat dishes.  Most of them were purchased for a song at T.J. MAXX.

My sister Susan bought these vintage waxed paper chocolat bags at a small  collectibles shop on rue St. Paul in the Marais district of Paris.  She paid 3 Euros per bag.  What are the chances of ever finding another?

Of course I had to frame one for myself!

I'm also attracted to tins with chocolate advertising, like this one filled with chocolate-hazelnut cream.

     This wonderful old French clock is hanging in my niece's kitchen.

I just found this barometer on French eBay.  How could I resist?

                                    Gotta love chocolate!

   I barely had them out of the oven before the pain au chocolat (bread and chocolate rolls) were history.  My daughter brought ten friends home after school and when they found these cooling on the kitchen table they were quickly devoured.  It was hard to be upset about this, although I was seriously looking forward to waking the next morning and eating a pain au chocolat, momentarily warmed in the oven, along with my cappuccino.  But when my daughter told me how much her friends loved the rolls I knew my efforts were appreciated and that meant more to me than eating one myself..... I think?

   This recipe also comes from the Time for Snacks article by Patricia Wells in the September 25, 1988, issue of the New York Times magazine.  I've always made them by breaking up into pieces any baking chocolate I have on hand in my pantry, but sometime I would like to try the pain au chocolate sticks available through the King Arthur Baking catalog.  The only thing that's kept me from doing so is the price.  Occasionally King Arthur will offer free shipping for on-line purchases.  That's when to order!

                                   PAIN au CHOCOLAT
                          (from an article by Patricia Wells)

1/2 cup lukewarm milk
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 1/4 tsp. or 1 package, dry yeast
2 1/4 to 2 1/2 cups unbleached flour
1 tsp. salt
  about 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, divided into 8 equal portions
  milk, for brushing the rolls

1.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the milk, water, sugar, yeast and one cup of the flour.  Stir until thoroughly blended and set aside to proof the yeast, about five minutes.
2.  Once proofed, add the salt, then begin adding the remaining flour, little by little, until the dough is too stiff to stir.  Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and begin kneading, adding additional flour if the dough is too sticky.  Knead until the dough is smooth and satiny, about 10 minutes.  (This can be done in a mixer with a dough hook).
3.  Place the dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until double in bulk, about one hour.
4.  Punch down and let rise again, covered, until double in bulk, about one hour.
5.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
6.  Divide the dough into eight equal portions.  On a lightly floured surface, roll each piece into a six-inch-by-four-inch rectangle. (I just stretch with my hands and forget the rolling pin). Place a portion of chocolate in the center of each piece of dough.  Fold the end, then the sides, pinching the dough to seal.  Place, pinched side down, on a baking sheet.  Cover and allow to rest, at room temperature, for about 30 minutes. 
7.  Brush the rolls with milk and bake until golden brown, about 30 to 25 minutes.                                
                                   Yield:  Eight servings

My sister Susan and I were raised in the Amana Colonies in Iowa.  A German communal society until 1932, Amana was comprised of seven villages each having its own community kitchen.  Both of my parents grew up eating the meals made in these kitchens.  When the communal aspect of the Amanas came to an end and the kitchens no longer existed, the foods my parents and their parents had eaten were transferred to their own meal preparation repertoire.  One recipe both my mother and aunt made frequently was Kalter Cocoa Pudding (chilled cocoa pudding), or starch pudding as we called it.  I remember big bowls in the refrigerator full of vanilla sauce with the chocolate pudding floating in the center.  The vanilla sauce is delightful poured over anything!

                                KALTER COCOA PUDDING
                  (adapted from the Amana Recipes cookbook)

6 Tbsp. cornstarch
3 Tbsp. cocoa
6 Tbsp. sugar
2 cups cold milk
2 cups hot milk
1 Tbsp. vanilla
Blend cornstarch, cocoa, sugar and cold milk.  Stir into hot milk and cook in the top of a double boiler until thickened, stirring constantly.  Add the vanilla and divide between two molds or use 8 individual oeufs en gelee molds (oval metal molds), as I've done.  They don't hold the shape of the mold well, so don't worry about what you use. CHILL.

                                      VANILLA SAUCE

2 cups hot milk
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 egg, well beaten
1 tsp. vanilla
Mix sugar, cornstarch and egg.  Add to hot milk and cook for three minutes.  Take from heat and add 1 tsp. vanilla.  Cool and serve poured around the unmolded chocolate pudding.  Sift additional cocoa over the chocolate pudding. 

      

Cafe Latte is a cafeteria-style restaurant on the trendy Grand Avenue of St. Paul.  In the 20-plus years I have lived here, it's been a top destination for diners wanting soups and salads and prize-winning desserts.  This recipe for Chicken Salsa Chili is from Cafe Latte.  A squirt of fresh lime juice onto each serving adds a refreshing taste.  Enjoy with an icy margarita!

                                CHICKEN SALSA CHILI
                              (adapted from Cafe Latte)

3 Tbsp. canola oil
2 1/2 Lbs. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch dice
1 1/2 cups onions, diced
1 cup green bell pepper, diced
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
3 Tbsp. chili powder
2 tsp. dried cilantro
2 tsp. minced garlic
1 finely chopped jalapeno
1-14 ounce can of chicken stock
1-16 ounce can light red kidney beans, drained
2-15 ounce cans garbanzo beans, drained
2-14 1/2 ounce cans diced tomatoes
1-29 ounce can tomato sauce
Lime juice to taste

*  Heat oil in a large saucepan.  Saute chicken with onions and bell peppers.  Add next five ingredients and cook briefly.  Add chicken stock, beans, tomatoes and tomato sauce.  Heat thoroughly.  Scoop into bowls and squirt with fresh lime juice.  Top with blue corn chips, diced avocados and shredded cheese.

This is my ultimate obsession... my French Bulldog Pipi (yes, I know what her name means in French and it's quite appropriate).

My first encounter with a French Bulldog was ten years ago at the Hotel Saint-Germain in Paris.  Jules (Julius Augustus Caesar) was the resident Frenchie and he totally stole my heart.  I couldn't get down to the lobby fast enough in the mornings to see him again.

Three years later when I returned to visit Jules, he was joined at the hotel by his daughter Ogune.

              I would even see Frenchies used in window displays!

After that visit, I made it my mission to find a Frenchie of my very own.  And this is the little girl I found.  Pipi is now seven years old.  (In this photo she is modeling her coat designed and constructed by me).

Frenchies are becoming very popular in our neighborhood of St. Paul.  They are described as little clowns in a philosopher's robe.  Here Pipi is shown with house guests Tayto and Belle.

                            How can you not love a Frenchie?

I need to get on the phone this morning and find a friend who is willing to come over and eat a piece of the Chocolate-Coated Walnut Caramel Tart I just made.  Imagine, having to beg someone to eat this!  But I bake a lot and my family will look at my latest creation and say, "Not tonight, I can't eat another thing."  I've made this tart several times over the years.  It's very good and very rich, plus I think it's just fun to make.  Of course, it's always best eaten the same day it's baked, but I have frozen left-over portions that were pretty darn good when defrosted.

                   CHOCOLATE-COATED WALNUT CARAMEL TART

PATE SUCREE
2 cups cake flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 pound chilled butter
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon heavy cream

WALNUT CARAMEL FILLING
2 cups walnuts
6 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
7/8 cup cream

GANACHE
1/4 pound bittersweet chocolate
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

OPTIONAL DECORATION (the fun part)
2 ounces white chocolate
1 tablespoon canola oil

PREPARATION:  For the Pate Sucree, mix the flour and sugar.  Cut butter into 1-inch cubes and cut into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal with a few pea-sized pieces left.  In a separate bowl, whisk 1 of the egg yolks and cream together.  Add to the flour mixture and mix until dough just comes together.  Add up to one tablespoon water if necessary.  Divide dough in two, with one half slightly larger than the other, and press into discs.  Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour. 
   For the filling, chop walnuts.  Cut butter into 1/2-inch cubes.  In a saucepan, bring sugar and 1 cup of water to a boil and cook until a light golden caramel. about 10 minutes.  Slowly pour the cream into boiling liquid.  Stir in walnuts and butter.  Cook mixture on high heat, stirring to prevent burning the walnuts, until syrup is reduced and caramel colored, about 7 minutes.  Pour into bowl and cool to room temperature. 
   Roll larger disc of dough out to about 1/8-inch thick and press into a 9 1/2-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.  Trim.  Cover pastry shell with plastic wrap and chill until assembly. 
   Heat oven to 375 degrees.  Mix remaining egg yolk with 2 teaspoons water for egg wash.  Remove pastry shell from the refrigerator and brush egg wash around the edge.  Carefully spread cooled caramelized walnuts over entire shell.  Do Not press down on walnuts; you will rip the pastry.  Roll out smaller disc of dough to about 1/8-inch thick and 9 1/2-inches wide.  Top tart with pastry and pinch top and bottom crust together.  Trim so that seam doesn't stick up more than about 1/4-inch above rim of pan.  Or seal and trim by rolling over the rim of the pan with a rolling pin. 
   Bake on bottom rack in preheated oven until the crust turns golden brown, about 40 minutes.  If it browns before 40 minutes, cover lightly with foil.  Remove and cool to room temperature.
   For the Ganache, melt chocolate, cream, and butter in a double boiler over simmering water, stirring constantly, until smooth. (I used a microwave).
   Invert tart onto serving plate and spread top with the Ganache.
   For optional decoration, melt white chocolate and oil over barely simmering water in a double boiler (again I used the microwave) until almost melted.  Remove from heat and stir until completely melted.  Scrape into a parchment-paper cone.  ( I used a small zip-lock bag and snipped a tiny piece off the corner).  Pipe a spiral design on top of tart.  Make "spokes" by dragging a wooden toothpick or the tip of a paring knife from the center of the tart to the edges.  Then make spokes in between each going the opposite direction, toward the center.  The design should resemble a spider's web. 
                                 YIELD:  12 Servings

Over the years I have clipped many pages from the food section of the Sunday New York Times Magazine.  The September 25, 1988, magazine featured the article Time for Snacks by Patricia Wells and listed recipes for after-school treats from four pastry shops in Paris.  One recipe that I make often is Tartelettes aux Pommes (free-form individual apple tarts) from Poilane on the Rue du Cherche-Midi. 

The breads and pastries baked and sold there have a charming rustic quality due to the brick wood-burning ovens. 

Lionel Poilane's breads have a world-wide reputation and are served in some 400 Parisian restaurants.

Poilane's butter cookies, known as Punitions, can be found in Dorie Greenspan's cookbook Paris Sweets.

The recipe for Tartelette aux Pommes makes four, but I have quadrupled it for parties.  It's quite impressive to have a large basket full of 16 individual apple tarts.  One caveat, if you saute more than 4 apples at a time you will need to cut back on the amount of butter used or you will be steaming the apples instead of caramelizing.  (I recommend doing only four at a time).

                              TARTELETTES AUX POMMES
                            (as adapted from Patricia Wells)

1 recipe flaky sweet pastry dough (see below)
4 Golden Delicious or Gala apples
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 egg, beaten
1 Tbsp. light brown sugar

1.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
2.  Divide the dough into four equal portions.  Roll each portion into a six-inch circle.  Place the circles of dough on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and refrigerate until ready to bake.
3.  Peel and core the apples, then cut each into 12 pieces.  Heat the butter until hot (but not smoking), in a large frying pan.  Add the apples and granulated sugar.  Saute' until lightly browned and starting to caramelize.
4.  Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and spoon the apples into the center of the pastry rounds, dividing them evenly.  It helps if the apples have cooled somewhat before being placed on the pastry rounds.  Fold the edges of dough up over the rim of the apples and pleat, forming about a one-inch border.  Brush the border with the egg.
5.  Bake in the center of the oven until golden, about 20 minutes.  Sprinkle the apples with the brown sugar. 

                                        PATE BRISEE

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
7 Tbsp. unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces
2 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
3 Tbsp. ice water

1.  Place the flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor.  Pulse to combine.  Add the butter and process until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  Add the water and slowly pulse3 just until the pastry begins to hold together. Form a disc and wrap in plastic.  Refrigerate for at least an hour. 

One of my favorite meals is a classic French salad of bitter greens, poached eggs and crispy bacon.  Every so often I mix up a vinaigrette of shallots, sherry wine vinegar and fried apple-smoked bacon and keep it in a jar in my refrigerator, making it easy to assemble this salad quickly.  Garnish the salad with bread cubes that have been browned in your best olive oil and a big sprinkle of Kosher salt once off the heat.

                                       BISTRO SALAD

Charlie Trotter's Sherry-Bacon Vinaigrette:
4 oz. bacon, julienned (I use Nueske's)
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup sherry wine vinegar
1 small shallot, finely diced
salt & freshly-ground black pepper
*  Cook the bacon until crispy.  Place bacon and 1/4 cup of the rendered bacon fat in a small bowl.  Whisk in the olive oil, vinegar and shallot and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble salad:
Toss bitter greens with vinaigrette.  Top each serving with one to two poached eggs.  Garnish with croutons.  Season poached eggs to taste.

Valentine's Day a year ago was our last day in Paris.  It was a cold, rainy, windswept day.  We decided to spend that day at Chateau de Chantilly, 30 minutes north of Paris by train.  The chateau's art collection is second only to Le Louvre in France, but the reason we really wanted to go there was to eat...

especially the desserts.  Chateau de Chantilly is where Chantilly Cream was accidentally invented!

The tables in the charming stone-walled dining room at the downstairs restaurant Les Cuisines de Vatel were decorated for the special occasion. 

                 My niece's husband was also color-coordinated!

                After our bellies were full, we toured the chateau.

                         and admired the mosaic tile floors...

         and looked out through the windows to the formal gardens.

                 The Chateau de Chantilly even has its own chapel.

Soon enough it was time to walk down the cobbled road and catch the bus back to the train station...   

For our last night in Paris.